Costume Musings

Magma Lux Shoulder Armour using L200 and LED Foam

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

In this tutorial I’ll go over how to make Magma Lux’s shoulder armour from League of Legends. This armour piece will feature animated LED lights, and also be separable for travel.

Remember to always use proper safety equipment such as safety glasses, respirators, gloves, ear protection, ventilation, and cutting mats while following this tutorial. Also remember to ask for supervision if you are a younger reader. Cosplay can be a fun hobby, but make sure you are safe first!

Pattern:
Print this pattern on a 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper
PDF – Magma Lux Shoulder Pattern 1
PDF – Magma Lux Shoulder Pattern 2

Shoulder Materials
¼” L200 foam
¼” LED foam
Foam Clay & mod podge
16 gauge wire/clothes hanger wire
Painter’s tape
Airbrush with Red/Yellow/Black/Dark Purple Acrylic paint
Hot glue gun & glue sticks
Heat gun
Exacto knife
Marker or pen

Electronics
TEXT – Magma Lux Shoulder Armour LED Code
LED NeoPixel Strip lighting
Solder iron and solder
Wire
3 pin JST connectors
Arduino Nano Microcontroller
Battery
Heat shrink

First, tape your pattern pieces together by lining up the colors and edges of paper.Then trace the patterns on your ¼” L200 and ¼” LED foam with your pen. If you need your pattern to stay put you can also push some pins through the pattern into the foam. Then cut your shoulder pattern out with a pair of scissors or an exacto knife. The pattern sheets will show where you will need to make mountain and valley cuts. When cutting an edge mountain piece you want to make a 45 degree cut into the pattern piece you are cutting. For the valley, you cut the opposite direction (45 cut away from the pattern piece). For the cuts in the middle of the foam pieces, mark with your pen where the cut will be. Use your exacto knife to cut at a 45 degree angle halfway through the foam. Do this to both sides of the line. This will take a triangular piece of foam out, without cutting all the way through the foam. For mountain cuts, take the foam out from the backside of the foam. For Valley cuts, take the foam out from the top side of the foam. Then flip your patterns to make the opposite shoulder. You must flip the patterns or the angled cuts will be backwards for the other side!

Take your L200 and LED foam pieces and glue them together by matching the color guides. Then glue the remaining front L200 foam pieces together, and the remaining back L200 pieces. By having the front and back in two seperate pieces it will be easier to install the LEDs.

Electronics:

In this tutorial I will not be going over the basic theory behind Ohm’s law. If you want to learn this information yourself I suggest you check out Kamui Cosplay’s books on LED lights or head over to the Adafruit webpage. You will need a firm grasp of these concepts before starting this project. You can use whatever different lighting and resistor combinations you can find available to you, this is just what I used for my setup.

Here is a diagram of my circuit for the shoulder armour. When you create your circuit, use your JST connectors where you need to be able to disconnect your lights from each shoulder. This is so you can remove them more easily for travel/storage. Use hot glue to attach the strip lights to the inside of the L200 foam pieces. I applied my lights to the back side of the L200 foam that way there are a small distance away from the LED foam. This just makes the light diffuse a bit better. To attach the “floating” piece, hot glue a piece of wire that runs along the edge of the first point, goes out at the first corner, and then into the bottom of the “floating” piece.

Once your LEDs have been installed use your hot glue to glue the front and back sides together. You can also use some foam clay to fill in any holes or gaps that may be still showing after gluing. If you do use the foam clay you will want to coat you pieces with a sealant (I used mod podge for mine!). At this point you can also install some velcro onto your shoulders to stick your armour to your bodysuit.

Lastly, use your airbrush to first add a light layer of yellow onto the LED foam portions of the shoulders. Then use some red acrylic paint in your airbrush to gradually add some red gradient to this same spot. The edges will be more red, while the center will be yellow. Then paint the remaining L200 Foam piece with a mix of black and dark purple.

Congratulations! Your shoulder armour is now ready to be worn!

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Drow Elf Armor Tutorial with Worbla and L200 Foam

Tutorial by Sayakat Cosplay

Photo credits:
Professional photos by @S1_price_lightworks on instagram,
www.facebook.com/s1pricelightworks
Non-professional progress and costume pictures by myself

The armor for this costume was created using Worbla and L200 foam sponsored from cosplaysupplies.com, and other materials. Each piece was a combination of materials as per the needs of each piece.

Materials Used:

Roll of half inch L200
Roll of quarter inch L200
Jumbo roll of black worbla
Saran wrap
Masking tape
Newspaper
Barge cement
Super glue
Eva foam (4mm thickness)
Craft foam
Quikseal
Plastidip
Spray paint
Acrylic paint
Thibra
Nylon strapping
D rings
Velcro
Heat gun
Hot glue gun & high temp glue sticks
Box cutter and sharpener
Cutting mat/silicone baking mat
Dremel
Paintbrushes

To pattern each piece, I either used saran wrap and masking tape to tape over the body part the armor was covering, or a free hand pattern drawn on newspaper. I use left over newspaper to pattern because it’s cheap and easily available. I used the tape and saran wrap method for my foot armor and lower leg armor. I created a free hand blueprint for the shoulder piece and arm piece using newspaper. The finger armor/claws were also a free hand blueprint.

Patterning is an important part of the process, as this is where the base shapes and fit are created. Take your time drawing and fitting the patterns, and figuring out where seam lines will be placed. This will make the armor building that much faster and stress free. After the pattern for each piece is made, I use the pattern to cut out the base pieces for the armor.

The quarter inch L200 served as the base for the foot armor, shoulder piece, and arm piece. The half-inch L200 served as the base for the leg armor and was used to create bevels and details for the other pieces. Each piece is a mixture of materials, built for comfort and the needs of each piece. The leg armor has almost no worbla in it for weight and ease of movement. The shoulder and arm are covered in worbla for durability.

I started with the foot armor, as I usually start at either the bottom of the costume or the top.  I patterned the armor, cut the pattern off my foot, and laid it flat on the foam to trace and cut out. When working with L200, be aware that the foam will dull your blade incredibly fast. To get nice clean cuts, you will need to sharpen your blade after every cut you do. I use a Kershaw sharpener, but any knife sharpener will work to sharpen your cutting blade. Also be sure to have a cutting mat or other cutting surface under the foam, as you will need to exert some pressure to cut the foam cleanly.

Once the two sides of the foot were cut out, I heat formed them using my heat gun. L200 is very light and squishy, but it does heat form rather nicely. It will shrink a small amount as the foam cells contract under heat, but once formed, the L200 does keep its shape quite well. I glued the pieces together with hot glue. I found that hot glue works the best for L200 to L200 bonds. I tested barge, super glue, and hot glue prior to construction to determine the best gluing strategy. Always test your adhesives with new materials, as what is best may be different. Barge contact cement and superglue do work, but the bond is not as tight as with hot glue and super glue only works on the flat and uncut top surface of L200.

Foot armor glued together, I freehanded my decorations onto the piece to determine what I wanted to place and where. I decided on a simple single scroll piece for each side, that I made from black worbla. I used worbla for this, as it is easy to make a beveled scroll easily from worbla. I cut a number of angled bevels from the half-inch foam at the start of the project to make bevels for the various armor pieces.  To cut a bevel, you need to hold your box cutter at a 45-degree angle to the cutting surface and cut one long continuous line down the edge of the foam. Turn the foam over and do the same thing to keep making bevels. I took the time and made all my bevels at the beginning so I would not need to keep making them throughout the project.

The last step of the foot armor was to glue on the scrolls and the bevels to the edge of the piece. This was also done with hot glue. For the shoulder piece I created the pattern, cut out two pieces of the quarter inch L200, and then covered those pieces in black worbla. I used the foam pieces to pattern out on the worbla how much I would need to cover each foam piece. I traced around the foam about an inch out from the foam to create a piece of worbla that was slightly larger than the foam so the worbla could be wrapped over the edge of the foam.

This is called the fold over method in terms of covering something in worbla rather than the sandwich method which totally encases a piece of foam in two pieces of worbla. Only the edges are folded over, creating one side entirely covered in worbla, and the inside is only a thin strip of worbla over the edge and the foam is exposed on the inside. I chose the fold over method to conserve materials and for weight reasons. Worbla armor can get heavy, but using that method and foam for the details kept the shoulder piece light and comfortable.

To cover foam in worbla, heat up the piece of worbla completely, and then start to fold the edges over the foam. Reheat the edges of the worbla as necessary to keep folding over until the whole piece is covered in worbla. If you notice bubbles under your worbla surface, you can heat where the bubble is present, and once the worbla is warm and malleable, poke a small hole with a straight pin and force the air out. This will remove the bubble and you’ll be left with a nice, flat worbla surface. You may have a small pinhole left, but you can fill that in at a later step. The two shoulder sides, once covered in worbla, were heated and the top seam was pressed together to bond the two sides together and create the final shoulder shape. The same process was done for the smaller lower shoulder section as well.

The details on the shoulder were created by first free hand drawing on the piece.  Then masking tape was laid over the design, the pattern was traced, and the tape was removed and taped to newspaper. The design was cut out and used to trace onto 4 mm eva foam. These foam pieces were glued to the shoulder along with L200 bevels using hot glue.

The arm armor construction was similar to the shoulder but instead of L200 bevels, I used some of the leftover worbla scraps to create all the bevel details on the arm, as I wanted the profile of the bevels a bit lower and smaller than the foam bevels that I had made. I added a small amount of worbla details along with a 4 mm eva foam detail.

The leg armor is made completely from L200 foam, using both the thicknesses. The base leg and knee pieces are made from half inch L200, and the details on the edges and the designs are cut from the quarter inch L200. The lower leg piece is actually 3 pieces of foam, the shin armor and two pieces for each knee to create a curved shape. The knee pieces were cut out, heat shaped, and glued together. The shin piece was cut out and heat formed until the final shape was achieved. The knee was hot glued to the shin, and then the edge details were glued down using hot glue. The decorative pieces were also glued using hot glue.

The finger armor was created by patterning out the armor on newspaper, and then tracing and cutting the patterns on craft foam. I also used the worbla fold over method for these pieces, as I didn’t want the fingers getting too thick or bulky by adding extra worbla. If you decide to not use worbla, be aware that craft foam on its own is not very sturdy, especially for parts that are on a highly mobile and tactile part of the body and may be damaged easily. That’s why for hand pieces, I will always cover the craft foam in worbla.

A trick that I have discovered for gluing finger armor down is to put on a latex or vinyl glove, and then put on the glove you will glue the armor to. You can then glue the finger armor down to the glove using super glue. Worbla/foam bond well to fabric using super glue, and the latex glove underneath prevents the glue from gluing to your hand. You can use hot glue or contact cement to glue armor to the hand, but hot glue can be painful and does not bond well, and contact cement is messy and can leave glue marks everywhere.

Once all the pieces are glued down, carefully pull the glove and armor off the latex glove underneath. Some of the latex glove might be stuck and break off the glove (such as the fingertips) this is fine and totally ok. Remove as much of the latex glove as you can, and if anything is left behind you can go back in with tweezers and pull the remaining bits out.

Voila, a nicely glued armored gauntlet.

Once everything was built, I dremeled all the rough edges and smoothed out the worbla trim. Worbla can be sanded, but it makes the material a bit rough, so make sure to prime appropriately to smooth out the rough surface. I filled in gaps and seams with quikseal caulk. Quikseal is water-soluble and non-toxic and a great gap filler. This is commonly used to fill gaps in foam, but can also be used to fill gaps in worbla as well. It does shrink as it dries, so a second and maybe third layer is necessary to level out the gaps completely. Once all the gaps are filled and everything is dremeled and sanded, I primed with plastidip. All pieces got primed with 3 layers of plastidip. I usually will also prime with filler primer, but due to some time constraints I did not. Plastidip will actually smooth out worbla surfaces on its own pretty well, but the surface will be a bit rougher than if it was primed with filler primer as well.

Once primed, all pieces were painted with a shimmer black spray paint. Once dry, all the trim was painted white as a base for the silver with acrylic paint, and then painted silver over the white. The armor was sealed with a matte sealing spray. The finger armor was primed and painted slightly differently as small pieces like them are difficult to spray paint/plastidip. Instead of plastidip, they were primed with modpodge, and then painted with black acrylic paint. A bit of antique gold rub and buff was buffed on to the tips and edges of the pieces for a bit of contrast color to the rest of the costume.

All pieces were completed with strapping, D rings, and velcro for attachments after everything was painted, and the shoulder was fully assembled at this point. The two pieces are attached with nylon strapping and hot glue, and there is a small amount of cushion foam inside the shoulder for comfort when wearing the piece.

In addition to the armor, I also modified a swimsuit, sewed the rest of the fabric pieces, and styled a lacefront wig from Arda Wigs.

For the photo shoot, I completely painted myself grey with the help of a friend in Vibe body paint (water based body paint) from European Body Art. This process took approximately 4 hours including the beauty makeup for the face and body shading and contouring.

 

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Magma Lux Staff using L200 and LED Foam

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

In this tutorial I’ll go over how to make Magma Lux’s staff from League of Legends. This staff will feature animated LED lights, and also be able to disassemblable for travel.

Remember to always use proper safety equipment such as safety glasses, respirators, gloves, ear protection, ventilation, and cutting matts while following this tutorial. Also remember to ask for supervision if you are a younger reader. Cosplay can be a fun hobby, but make sure you are safe first!

Pattern:

Print this pattern on a 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper
PDF – Magma Lux Staff Pattern Sheet

Ear Materials

¼” L200 foam
¼” LED foam
1/16” Clear Acrylic Sheet
¾” PVC Pipe
2 Male ¾” PVC Pipe Adapters
2 Female ¾” PVC Pipe Adapters
PVC Glue
Epoxy Glue
Foam Clay
Hand Saw
Scroll Saw
Painter’s tape
Airbrush with Red/Yellow/Black/Dark Purple Acrylic paint
Hot glue gun & glue sticks
Heat gun
Exacto knife
Marker or pen

Electronics
Download Magma Lux Staff LED Code
LED NeoPixel Strip lighting
Solder iron and solder
Red Wire
3 pin JST connectors
Arduino Nano Microcontroller
4 rechargeable AA batteries and battery holder
Heat shrink

First, trace the patterns on your ¼” L200 and ¼” LED foam with your pen. If you need your pattern to stay put you can also push some pins through the pattern into the foam. Then cut your staff pattern out with a pair of scissors or an exacto knife. Repeat this again until you should have 4 sets (eight sides) in total cut.

The pattern sheets will show where you will need to make mountain and valley cuts. To make these, mark with your pen where the cut will be. Use your exacto knife to cut at a 45 degree angle halfway through the foam. Do this to both sides of the line. This will take a triangular piece of foam out, without cutting all the way through the foam. For mountain cuts, take the foam out from the backside of the foam. For Valley cuts, take the foam out from the top side of the foam. Be careful when cutting that you have two mirrored pieces (opposites). This is so you can attach them back to back. Do this so you will have two sets of each direction. Once cut, hot glue these mountain and valley cuts together.

Take your L200 foam piece and hot glue its edge to the top edge of the LED foam piece. Do this for the opposite direction set as well. You should have 2 sets of each.

For the center circle of the staff use some ¼” LED foam. Heat the foam up with your heat gun, and stretch the hot foam over a small round form. Then cut the shaped dome into a circle that will fit between the two side foam pieces.

Cut your ¾” PVC pipe into 3 sections with a handsaw. Two pieces at 14.5 cm (5.7 inch) and one piece at 22.5 cm (8.9 inch). Layout your pipe sections with your adapters. Attach the female ends to the ends of the middle section (22.5 cm). Attach the male ends to the end of one side of the smaller section (14.5 cm). Having both ends of the staff the same adapter allows you to attach them to the middle section on either end for convenience. Follow the direction on your PVC glue and then glue these adapters in place.

Trace out the acrylic pattern onto the 1/16” acrylic sheet. Apply painters tape to the line. This is very important to be able to cut the acrylic! If you don’t do this the acrylic will chip and crack and not cut properly! Next set up your scroll saw to the recommended settings for acrylic. If you aren’t sure, then start slow and work your speed up to a comfortable setting. Carefully cut out your acrylic sheet. Once cut, use epoxy to glue the acrylic to the ends of the staff PVC pipe (short section, on the side without the adapter).

 

Electronics:

In this tutorial I will not be going over the basic theory behind Ohm’s law. If you want to learn this information yourself I suggest you check out Kamui Cosplay’s books on LED lights or head over to the Adafruit webpage. You will need a firm grasp of these concepts before starting this project. You can use whatever different lighting and resistor combinations you can find available to you, this is just what I used for my setup.

Here is a diagram of my circuit for the staff end lights. When you create your circuit, use your JST connectors where you need to be able to disconnect your lights easily in the staff. This is so you will still be able to take apart the staff into 3 pieces for travel/storage. Use hot glue to attach the strip lights to the inside of the L200 foam pieces.

I used AA batteries to supplies my lights; therefore, I soldered my cases together in a line to fit in the PVC staff. Solder all positive wires (2 JST wires, 1 battery wire, and 1 wire for the microcontroller) together. Solder all negatives in the same way together.. Lastly, solder all data wires together (2 JST wires and 1 wire for the microcontroller). When attaching to the microcontroller, attach the positive wire to “5V”, the negative wire to “Ground”, and the Data to “D10”. Test your circuit to ensure all connections are working.

 

Assembly:

After glueing your circuitry, glue the foam pieces to your cut Acrylic sheet ends. For the bottom foam piece slide the end into the inside of the PVC pipe. Lastly, use some foam clay to fill in and smooth the gap between the PVC and the L200 foam. You can also use the foam to fill any gaps between the outsides of the top foam pieces. You should now have a fully assembled staff end.

Use your airbrush to first add a light layer of yellow onto the LED foam portions of your staff ends. Then use some red acrylic paint in your airbrush to gradually add some red gradient. The edges will be more red, while the center will be yellow.

Then paint the L200 Foam piece with a mix of black and dark purple.

Paint the middle staff section red, while the end section will be a mix of the black and purple you used for the L200 pieces earlier. Paint the detail connectors on the staff gold. Use painter’s tape to mask off any areas needed.

Congratulations! Your staff is now complete!

 

 

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Snow Fawn Poppy Bell Hammer Tutorial using L200 and LED Foam

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

In this tutorial I will go over how to make Snow Fawn Poppy’s “bell” hammer. This will include making a foam sphere bell, a disassemblable hammer shaft for travel, and animated LED lighting.

Remember to always use proper safety equipment such as safety glasses, respirators, gloves, ear protection, ventilation, and cutting mats while following this tutorial. Also remember to ask for supervision if you are a younger reader. Cosplay can be a fun hobby, but make sure you are safe first!

Pattern:

Download all the patterns you need for the Bell Hammer here: LINK
Print these patterns on a 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper

Bell Hammer Materials
½” L200 foam
¼” L200 foam
¼” LED foam
2” diameter ABS pipe ***will cut 3 pieces at 21” each (63” total) for my height of 5’5”***
2 – 2” diameter ABS male adapters
2 – 2” diameter ABS female adapters
Pipe cutting saw
ABS Glue
2 –  12” diameter styrofoam half balls
Velcro
Transparency Film
Packing Tape
Sandpaper (60 grit, 220 grit, 500 grit)
Rotary tool
Heat gun
Hot knife
Contact cement
Popsicle stick (spreading contact cement)
Hot glue gun & glue sticks
Box Cutter
Scissors or exacto knife
Marker or pen
Primer paint, acrylic paint/spray paint (gold), and paint brushes
Red satin fabric

Electronics Materials:
Neopixel strip lighting (79 LEDs total in my setup)
18-24 gauge wire (Red, Green, Black)
5V DC supply
470 ohm resistor
Solder, solder iron
Heat shrink
3 pin JST connectors (male and female)
Microcontroller (arduino)
Patterns – Animation code.txt

Creating the Foam Bell:

Trace the eight “sphere” pattern pieces onto your ½” L200 Foam and cut them out with your exacto knife or scissors. Remember to draw out your guide lines and mark the number of the piece with a directional arrow to the next piece(1 –> 2 –> ). Repeat this again to make another eight sphere pieces for a second dome.

Apply a thin layer of contact cement on two opposite edges of the half sphere piece. Follow the drying time directions for your contact cement, but typically the drying is done when the contact cement becomes “dull” and not sticky to the touch. Once this occurs, stick the two pieces together. Repeat this step with all eight pieces until a half dome is formed. Repeat again with the other eight pieces to make a second half dome.

Use your heat gun to heat up the L200 foam ball. While warm, stretch the foam half over the styrofoam half ball to give it a nice round shape. Make sure the foam has been stretched enough that the edges of the foam meet the edge of the styrofoam half. Repeat for the other dome.

 

Trace the eight “bell decoration” pattern pieces onto your ¼” L200 Foam and cut around the outside (not the “snowflake arms”) with your exacto knife or scissors. These pieces will be for the top of the bell. Apply your contact cement to the bottom of the decoration and to the top of the sphere. Don’t apply contact cement past the bottom of the “snowflake arm” or the bottom inch of the sphere edge. We want this portion not stuck together to place the edge on later.

Take the top foam sphere off of the styrofoam ball and cut the snowflake design out with a box cutter. Take an exacto knife and add a bevel (45 degree cut) around the outside of each of the decoration pieces. This will give a more defined edge between each panel of the decor. You can also add this bevel around the edge of the snowflake design too.

Place the top decoration piece back on the styrofoam half ball. Use your pen to trace or outline the snowflake decoration onto the styrofoam. Make a guide or line on the edge of both the styrofoam and foam. This is so you know which way to place them back together after cutting the styrofoam. Remove the foam top piece again and heat up your hot knife. Use your hot knife to cut out the snowflake design from your styrofoam half ball. Apply contact cement to the bottom edge of both the styrofoam ball and the inside of the foam sphere (be careful to line up your guidelines on the edge for the snowflake design!). Once dry, attach these together. Next apply your contact cement to attach the decoration pieces, being careful to line up the snowflake design’s edge evenly. Take the bottom piece of your sphere and apply contact cement to the bottom edge of both the styrofoam ball and the inside of the foam sphere. Once dry also attach the two together. You should now have two foam half balls attached to the styrofoam.

Cut 4 even strips of velcro about 2” (5 cm) long. Use hot glue to apply one side of the velcro to the bottom half of the sphere, on the styrofoam edge, at each of the four sides (equal distance apart). Stick the other half of the velcro to the portion glued on the half sphere. Apply glue to this half and attach the top half to make a ball. This method will ensure that you velcro is in the right spot on the other half, but make sure your hot glue has dried completely before attempting to take apart.

To make the edge piece, use a measuring tape to find the circumference of your sphere. Cut a strip of ¼” L200 foam that is 1.5” wide (~4cm) and your circumference long. Velcro your foam ball together and hold up your foam edge to the center of the ball. This piece will be used to hide the seam. Draw a line onto each of the decoration pieces and number each leaf with each point. This will be used for when you attach the points back onto the bottom half of the sphere. Cut each point off with your exacto knife and set them aside in a safe area (you’ll need them in the next step).

Use contact cement on the bottom portion of the decoration piece that was left unglued and attach it to the sphere. Then use contact cement to attach the edge piece to the bottom of the top half sphere (this will be easiest to do with the foam ball split in half). Reattach your sphere if needed after all this is glued. Then match your numbered points back up and draw the outlines onto the bottom of the sphere. Apply your contact cement to this and glue down your points to the bottom half.

Lastly, as a final decoration I cut two 1” (2.5 cm) wide by circumference long pieces. Using a rotary tool I sanded down the edges to make a point, mountain shape, or “V”. This piece then was glued to the edge that was used to hide the same. This gives that pointed edge Poppy has on her bell hamer.

 

Creating the Hammer Shaft:

Cut your ABS pipe into three equal 21” (~51 cm) lengths using your pipe cutting hand saw. Use a piece of sandpaper to clean up the edges of the pipe. Also, make sure your pipe is free from any debris before gluing.

Layout your three pipe sections and place your adapters (male and female ends) where they need to go so that they will all link together. Take the time to have this all placed out before you start gluing! This is to ensure you don’t make mistakes in pairing the male and female connectors. Read your gluing instructions for your ABS glue and apply it to the end of the pipes and attach the adapters. Let the glue try the recommended about of time. Now you should have a three pipe section that can attach into a large hammer shaft!.

 

Hammer Pommel:

The pommel of the hammer will take quite a beating on the convention floors all day. To help keep it undamaged I decided to 3D print mine out of ABS plastic. I have provided the .stl file if you wish to print it yourself, or get someone to print it for you. If you don’t have access to a 3D printer, you can also create this piece out of L200 foam. Epoxy glue the pommel to the end (of the opposite end pipe piece) of the hammer shaft. Lastly, paint the pommel gold.

Attaching the Bell and Shaft:

Using one of the end pipe pieces (only has 1 adapter on the end) trace the outline onto the bottom bell sphere. Use your box cutter and hot knife to cut this hole that the pipe will feed into. After cutting, test that your pipe will feed through the hole.

 

Now we will need to make the flange/decoration that holds the two together. Cut out the pattern piece for the bell flange with ¼” L200 foam. Use contact cement to attach both edges into a “cylinder” shape. Then use your heat gun to flair out the larger end (kinda like a trumpet horn). This piece should also be able to slide over your ABS pipe. Cut a strip of ¼” L200 foam that is 1” wide (~2.5cm) and the circumference of your flange piece long. Glue this decoration edge piece to the bottom (small end) of your flange piece.

 

Slide your finished flange piece onto your pipe end. Then attach your bell onto the end of the pipe (make sure the pipe is pushed all the way up to the top of the bell for better support later). Cut four small pieces of velcro and attach them similarly to how you did the foam sphere. You should now have the flange piece attached to the bottom of the bell.

 

Painting:

Start sanding your bell with 60 grit and 200 grit sandpaper. Remove large uneven spots or connecting pieces. Then prep your foam bell for painting by wet sanding it with some water and your 500 grit paper. Smooth down any seams and rough edges. Use your heat gun between layers of sanding to dry up the foam and remove and fuzzy sanded spots. Then apply a few layers of primer spray paint and give it another wet sand. Lastly, apply a thin layer of gold spray paint, or use your acrylic paint to give your bell the right color!

Electronics:

In this tutorial I will not be going over the basic theory behind Ohm’s law. If you want to learn this information yourself I suggest you check out Kamui Cosplay’s books on LED lights or head over to the Adafruit webpage. You will need a firm grasp of these concepts before starting this project. You can use whatever different lighting and resistor combinations you can find available to you, this is just what I used for my setup.

 

Here is a diagram of my circuit for the bell and pommel lights. When you create your circuit, use your JST connectors where you need to be able to disconnect your lights easily. The only JST that is mandatory is for disconnecting the Pommel. This is so you will still be able to take apart the shaft into 3 pieces for travel/storage.

Heat some LED foam and stretch it over a sphere to stretch it into a dome. Then place your pommel over top of it and trace the middle circle out. Cut this piece to make the center “gem” of the pommel. Take the Strip lighting for the pommel and use super glue to the inside of the pommel. Be careful to have the wire go down through the hammer shaft to the top of the bell. Make sure the lights are pointing to the inside of the circle. Use a bit of packing tape to ensure the lights stay in place. Lastly, hot glue your LED foam to the pommel, covering the lights.

Cut the “snowflake” design out of LED foam. Set this LED foam in ¼” deep into the hole and hot glue it in place. For the lights to be an even diffusion of light they will need to be set about an inch from the LED foam. To do this, take your three pieces of strip lights and tape them to strips of overhead transparencies. Then tape this overhead transparency to the inside of the bell so the lights will point down and be suspended over each arm of the snowflake design. Repeat this for the three lights.

 

Finishing Details:

Use your red satin to make a large bow and hot glue/hand stitch it to the “flange” part of the hammer. Don’t know how to make a bow? Try looking for “fabric bow tutorial” online, there are many great options out there!

Take your red satin again and cut it into large strips. Using hot glue, wrap these strips around the bottom pommel shaft and the middle pole section. Be careful not to wrap over your pipe adapters!! Cut another smaller piece of satin to wrap around these sections. Instead of gluing them down, use some velcro to make this piece removable . This way you can pull this piece off so that you disassemble the pole sections for travel or storage.

Lastly, make a painted gold 1” (2.5 cm) by circumference wide, rectangle piece of ¼” L200 foam. Glue this piece to were the pommel and shaft connect to make a clean transition.

Finally, use your ¼” L200 foam to make a tube a bit larger than the 2” abs pipe. The tube should be about 1” (2.5 cm) tall. Hot glue this tube to the inside of the top of the bell. This will make a slot that the tube can slid into to keep it attached at the top. This will help it from shifting around as you move it!

That’s it you’re done! Enjoy your new hammer and “go find that hero!”

 

 

Category: Cosplay, L200, LED Foam, Tutorial | Tags: | leave comment |

Giant Fawn Ears from L200 Foam Tutorial

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

In this tutorial I have broken up the ears and antlers for those who may only need one or the other. This tutorial was designed to create my Snow Fawn Poppy character from League of Legends, but the same principles can be applied for many different kinds of ears and antlers. First up… Making the ears!

Category: Cosplay, Tutorial | Tags: | leave comment |

Deer Ears Tutorial using L200 Foam

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

In this tutorial I have broken up the ears and antlers for those who may only need one or the other. This tutorial was designed to create my Snow Fawn Poppy character from League of Legends, but the same principles can be applied for many different kinds of ears and antlers. First up… Making the ears! (If you want to skip to just the antlers, go here)

Remember to always use proper safety equipment such as safety glasses, respirators, gloves, ear protection, ventilation, and cutting matts while following this tutorial. Also remember to ask for supervision if you are a younger reader. Cosplay can be a fun hobby, but make sure you are safe first!

EARS:

Pattern:

Print this pattern on a 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper
PDF – Poppy Ear and Antler Pattern Sheet

Ear Materials

¼” L200 foam (Get it from Cosplay Supplies here)
Inner ear color fur (white)
Outer ear color fur (brown)
Plastic Headband
Hot glue gun & glue sticks
Heat gun
Scissors or exacto knife
Needle and thread
Marker or pen

First, trace the pattern on your ¼” L200 foam with your pen. If you need your pattern to stay put you can also push some pins through the pattern into the foam. Then cut your ear pattern out with a pair of scissors or an exacto knife. Then flip your pattern and cut out a second ear (1 Left and 1 Right).

Mark on your foam where the fold line will be. This will become the part of the ear that folds over to make the hollow.

Next apply heat with your heat gun to where the fold line is. Be careful not to scorch the foam. Keep the gun moving over the surface and don’t apply it too close. Once the foam is warm bend the foam at your fold line marks and wait for it to cool before releasing.

 

Now you can use your foam as a pattern to cut your fur. Make sure you have the nap (direction) of the fur the right way! You want the direction of the fur to flow from the base of the ear to the tip. Use a pen or marker to trace around your foam ear. Make sure to cut the fur a bit larger so you can wrap it around the foam. Do this for both your outer and inner fur colors and also remembering to flip your foam ears the right directions (1 Left ear and 1 Right ear).

TIP: When you cut fur, flip the fur so that it is fur side down/canvas side up. Use the tip of the scissors to make tiny cuts which only cut the canvas. Try your best to split your scissors through the fur so that you don’t cut it off bluntly.

Use your hot glue to apply a bit of glue to the top of the backside of your foam ear and stick it to the canvas of the outer fur color (brown). Use more glue to stick down the rest of the ear working from the top of the ear to the bottom.

TIP: Cut the tip of the outer fur off. This will make it easier and less bulky  to fold over later.

Apply glue to the edge of the foam ear and start to roll over the fur to the inside of the ear. You can always use a pair of scissors to clean up or even out the fur edge to make it nicer before glueing it down.

Using your glue gun again, apply glue to the tip or the inner fur color (white) and stick it down to the tip of the foam ear. Glue this fur down similar to how you glued the outer ear, starting at the top and down to the base. If you cut this piece larger than your foam ear like me, it will most likely be more fur than you need. As you glue the fur down to the edge, use your scissors to also cut it smaller and clean up this edge.

Now that your ears are all furred the only step left is attaching them to wear on your head. My ears were later attached to another piece of L200 foam inside my hood; however, if you need a simpler system a plastic headband is a great option. Hot glue the base of your ears and stick them to the sides of your headband. To make sure your ears are extra secure, use a needle and thread to hand stitch them in place to the headband.

Enjoy your new pair of ears!

Ready to make the antlers? Check out Puppichu’s tutorial here

 

Interested in more League of Legends themed tutorials? Check out Vickybunnyangel‘s guide to creating Star Guardian Soraka Wings Using Varaform.

Category: Cosplay, Tutorial | Tags: | leave comment |

Making Light Up Deer Antlers Tutorial Using LED Foam

Tutorial by: Puppichu Cosplay

This tutorial was designed to create my Snow Fawn Poppy character from League of Legends, but the same principles can be applied for many different antlers or horns. 

Remember to always use proper safety equipment such as safety glasses, respirators, gloves, ear protection, ventilation, and cutting mats while following this tutorial. Also remember to ask for supervision if you are a younger reader. Cosplay can be a fun hobby, but make sure you are safe first!

Pattern:

Print this pattern on a 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper

PDF – Poppy Ear and Antler Pattern Sheet

 

Antler Materials

¼” thick LED foam (from CosplaySupplies. Get it here)
Contact cement
Rotary tool with drum sander
Heat gun
Hot glue gun & glue sticks
Acrylic paint (brown/white) and paint brushes
Popsicle stick (spreading contact cement)
Scissors
Marker or pen

Electronics (optional):

4 LED lights (5mm, 3.0-3.4V, 20mA)
Electronic wire
4 Resistors (110-150 ohm)
9v attachment and battery
Heat shrink
Solder and solder iron

Trace the patterns on your ¼” LED foam with your pen. If you need your pattern to stay put you can also push some pins through the pattern into the foam. Then cut your antler patterns out with a pair of scissors or an exacto knife. You will need four pieces of “large” and  four pieces of “small” antler patterns. Don’t forget to flip your pattern and cut this all again for one left and one right antler.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next step is to laminate the four pieces of foam together to make a larger/thicker antler chunk. Apply a thin layer of contact cement on two opposite sides. Follow the drying time directions for your contact cement, but typically the drying is done when the contact cement becomes “dull” and not sticky to the touch. Once this occurs, stick the two pieces together. Repeat this step again with the foam pieces you just glued to get all four pieces glued together. Do this for each of the antlers and for both the left and right sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grab your rotary tool with a sanding barrel and remove the sharp edges. You want to try and sculpt it into a more round/tube like shape. Remember the tips of the antlers would be thinner and rounder, while the base would closer to a rounded box shape. After sanding, use your heat gun to put a small bend into both the “large” and “small” antlers. This will make them look a bit more dynamic and not as flat/2D looking.

Apply more contact cement to the bottom of each of the “large” and “small” antler points. You want to glue a “small” antler to the front of a “large” antler. Once the glue has dried stick them together. Again, be careful you glue one left and one right direction.

 

Electrical components (optional):

In this tutorial I will not be going over the basic theory behind Ohm’s law. If you want to learn this information yourself I suggest you check out Kamui Cosplay’s books on LED lights or head over to the Adafruit webpage. You can use whatever different lighting and resistor combinations you can find available to you, this is just what I used for my set up.

Here is a diagram of my circuit and how they are wired in the antlers:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First prepare your antlers for installing the LEDs. Use an exacto knife to cut open the top of each of the antler points

Use your rotary tool to sand out a pocket for your led to rest in. This will also make the walls of the LED foam thinner to make your LEDs shine even brighter through the foam. Be careful not to sand all the way through! You don’t want a hole in your antlers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After soldering your circuit together (connect it to test that it works!), install it into the antlers by cutting a small channel halfway through the foam and stuffing in the wires. Give your circuit an extra test to make sure all wire are still connected and working!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now that your LEDs are working, seal up the channels and top of the antlers with some hot glue. Make sure you are using a low setting on your hot glue gun and try not to apply the tip of the glue gun directly onto the foam. This is to ensure the foam does not shrink/melt from high heat application.

With you antlers constructed and LEDs installed, it’s time to paint! I used an acrylic brown paint for the base of the antler, but be careful not to apply it to the tips of the antlers where you want your light to shine through. I used a very watered down white acrylic paint over the tips of the antlers to make sure the light won’t be obscured.

TIP: paint your antlers with the lights turned on to make sure you don’t cover up too much light with your paint.

Now your antlers are complete! The only step left is attaching them to wear on your head. My antlers were later attached to another piece of L200 foam inside my hood; however, if you need a simpler system a plastic headband is a great option. Hot glue the base of your antlers and stick them to the top of your headband. To make sure your antlers are extra secure, use a needle and thread to hand stitch them in place to the headband.

Enjoy your new pair of antlers!

 

Want to know how Puppichu made her adorable Fawn ears out of L200 foam? We will be posting that tutorial in the next few days so keep an eye out on our blog!

Interested in more League of Legends themed tutorials? Check out Vickybunnyangel‘s guide to creating Star Guardian Soraka Wings Using Varaform.

Category: Christmas, Cosplay, L200, LED Foam | Tags: , , , , , , , | leave comment |

Showgirl Headpiece Tutorial using Varaform and Worbla

Tutorial by Vickybunnyangel

Showgirl headpieces are traditionally created using a custom soldered wire frame to provide the skeletal structure that all those fantastic feathers, rhinestones and fabric attach to. I’m assuming Showgirls must have amazing neck and shoulder muscles, because the weight of these things could get ridiculous the more lavish they are. No wonder feathers are used very prominently since they are visually grand but are also very light. Instead of using a metal frame for my headpiece, I went with a  base of Varaform since it is very lightweight and easy to mold into shape. Plus not having to deal with metal wires, pliers, wire cutters, and soldering stuff was an added bonus.

I wanted to incorporate my love for Final Fantasy into this, so I based my design off of Rydia’s color scheme and look for an original “Showgirl Rydia” costume down the road.

Materials

Varaform – half Sheet
Black Worbla scraps
Headband
Rooster Feathers 14-16″ 8″ strand in lime
Rooster Feathers 8-10″ 1yd in lime
Acrylic Paints
Flexbond
Heat Gun
Scissors
Parchment paper
Hot Glue
Optional:
180 x Preciosa chaton rhinestones SS20 in peridot
70 x Preciosa chaton rhinestones SS16 in peridot
45 x Preciosa chaton rhinestones SS12 in peridot
E6000

Forming the base

I decided that the headpiece will be mounted on a headband so it will stay securely on the head. I’m using a cheap headband I had laying around but you may want to buy one that camouflages better with your hair color or matches your costume. I also wrapped my wig head in cling wrap to protect it from the stickiness of Varaform. I also trimmed my Varaform to clean up the edges. Once cooled those extra bits sticking out could’ve been very prickly!

One thing I like to do with Varaform is to heat it up on parchment paper, then fold the parchment paper with the Varaform still attached to create multiple layers and strengthen the Varaform. I want to minimize how much I touch the Varaform because it is very sticky! Once it has cooled, it is safe to peel the parchment paper off, reheat, and fold the other side. I folded to create a total of 3 layers. It is very durable at this point but still light as air!

My first strip of Varaform was attached directly to the headband. Because it is so sticky you don’t need any glue! This is now my base, and everything else will stick to it nicely.

I made several of these doubled to triple layered strips to build the tiers where my feathers will be attached to to create height. If you want your headpiece to have more height, just add more tiers!

While still flat, I finalized the design of my understructure and attached all the strips together with a bit of heat. You’ll notice I folded the feet up about an inch. This was in preparation to attach to the base headband. Since Varaform gets very floppy when it is warm I immediately put it into the freezer so that it would harden quicker.

After heating up just the feet of my vertical frame, I attached it to the headband. Unpainted it kind of looks like a very nice white lace!

Even though this will all be covered by feathers I still painted the Varaform green in case any of it accidentally peeks through. I didn’t have green spray paint or else that would’ve coated it more effectively, but do not spend too much time worrying about how perfect your base color is since it is getting covered up anyways.

Adding Feathers

Next I placed my feathers and glued them down. I put the long 14-16″ feathers in the front, and backed it with 2 tiers of shorter feathers to cheat the look of volume and length. Feathers get more expensive the larger you need them, so doing it this way instead of using all 14-16″ feathers saves a bit of money. I had enough feathers to completely conceal the Varaform base from behind too.

Creating the Crown

At this point I’ve shown you how to make a basic lightweight feathered headdress, and this next part is all up to personal design but this took up a lot more time than creating the headdress itself (That was about an hour’s worth of work). You can simplify things by gluing sequined fabric or foam shapes to decorate your headband. But we want to be fancy right? Yeah! Go big or go home.

The crown is formed out of Black Worbla. I made symmetrical earpieces that would attach to the headband on either side, and built sculpted details off of that by heating up scraps of Worbla and rolling them into noodles. Worbla sticks to itself when warm so again, no glue was needed here. When the Worbla crown pieces cooled and hardened, I heated up only the points that would come into contact with the Varaform base. I also applied a bit of heat to the Varaform as well to make it sticky and everything stuck together very well!

Decorating

I carefully wrapped the feathers in cling wrap first before coating the crown in paint so I wouldn’t accidentally get it on the feathers. I primed the crown with one coat of Flexbond to make it just a bit smoother before dry-brushing with antique gold paint. The advantages of using Black Worbla is that it’s already black! Which makes dry-brushing metallic colors very easy for those of us who are lazy since we don’t have to worry about shading in the crevices with black paint. I only had to dry-brush the areas that would be highlighted.

After the paint dried I went to town with a ton of rhinestones. E6000 is my preferred adhesive since it is viscous enough to hold the stones in place and I can still shift the placement and adjust things if necessary for a few seconds before letting it dry. I did wear a mask while using it though because it is a toxic substance with plenty of warning labels on it. If you are sensitive to the fumes of E6000 I recommend going with a glue like Gem-Tac. Don’t use hot glue for small rhinestones. You’ll just have a miserable time full of regret.

Additional tip: I did half of these by hand and it took forever, and then my Crystal Katana arrived and enabled me to do the rest of it in a fraction of the time! I definitely recommend a tool like that if you plan on doing a lot of rhinestone work. It has a pointed end made from wax that picks up the rhinestones, and adjustable tips for positioning stones.

Completed Piece

If you have any questions, or need something clarified please leave a comment below! Thanks for reading!

 

 

 

 

Category: Cosplay, Tutorial, Varaform, Worbla | Tags: | 5 comments |

Cosplay Supplies Banner Photo Contest

Another year of awesome cosplay creativity is almost behind us, and we’re overdue for a new look! We’re hosting our first photo contest and there’s a slew of great prizes too, including a feature on our homepage, social media, and other promotional material. We are accepting photos of costumes that incorporate anything that was purchased from Cosplay Supplies be it Worbla, foam, beads, make-up etc.

Winning photo(s) will be featured for a minimum of 2-3 months on Cosplaysupplies.com, Worbla.com, and our Facebook.

Prizes and Categories

There will be one Grand Prize Winner overall as well as winners in each costume category (listed below) and a community choice winner. The Grand Prize and category winners will be chosen by the Cosplay Supplies team. Community Choice will be user voted.

Grand Prize – $50 Gift Certificate and Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla
Best Worbla (Original, Black, Mesh, Transparent, Red) – $50 Gift Certificate OR Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla
Best Deco Art/Crystal Art – $50 Gift Certificate OR Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla
Best Make-up  – $50 Gift Certificate OR Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla
Best Other Craft Materials – $50 Gift Certificate OR Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla

Community Choice – $50 Gift Certificate OR Jumbo Roll of Black Worbla

How to enter

Fill out the contest entry form with your information. ONE entry per person, so be sure to pick your best costume! You may submit up to 5 images of the same costume in case a certain orientation works better for our banner (landscape/horizontal images are preferred).

Link to form: https://goo.gl/forms/sU2BOwVn8xlsYg3g2

Contest is open to residents of Canada & US. If you are under the age of 18, signed permission from your parent/guardian will be required to enter.

Deadline for submissions is November 30th 2017. Cosplay Supplies will collect eligible entries and after a preliminary screening, eligible entries will be posted to the Cosplay Supplies blog for voting.

Cosplay Supplies reserves the right to disqualify entries if we deem the photos to be inappropriate, permission from the photographer is not given, or fraudulent information is used.

Photo Submission Guidelines

  1. Minimum of 1200 pixels wide. Larger photos are highly encouraged!
  2. Preferably 300 DPI, but high quality images at 180 or 72 DPI will be accepted.
  3. Your photo should clearly show your cosplay, be in focus and well lit, and should not have other people in the background. Please don’t submit WIP photos, mirror shots, or hallway photos of your work.
  4. You must have your photographer’s permission to enter your image, as we will be using these photos for promotional purposes.
  5. If your photo does not meet our requirements, it will not be accepted.

It is important that you have your photographer’s permission to submit the photos. We will be sending out a copyright agreement to the chosen winners.

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Fake Boobs with Varaform

Tutorial by Vickybunnyangel


If you need to make fake boobs for whatever reason, we wrote up a tutorial using Varaform. You can alter the length/shape of the breast form to suit your costuming needs. I settled on an open chest with a high neck for costumes like Dragon Sorceress Zyra (League of Legends) and Night Elves (World of Warcraft).

Varaform takes complex shapes and curves very well which has made it popular for creating large-scale hollow shapes for theater and movies. Are you familiar with that trapped heat/sweaty feeling from wearing Worbla armor all day? The Varaform mesh allows for better air circulation and lets your skin breathe more. I wanted to showcase how Varaform can be used to duplicate a form, and we happened to have a mannequin around, so I made fake boobs!

Materials

1x 13″ x 19″ sheet of Varaform
Heat Gun
Bowl of water
Parchment Paper
Felt
4-way stretch Spandex close to the skin color you want
Hot glue
Fabric-Tac/Spray Adhesive/Rubber cement
Paint

Preparing your Positive Mold

Wrap your mannequin with cling wrap with tape to hold it in place. Varaform is covered in sticky glue, and this makes it easy to take off of the mannequin once cooled. Use tape strategically to get the cling wrap to stick to the curves and crevices as close as possible.

Forming the boobs

Heat the sheet of Varaform on parchment paper. It will stick to the paper initially but you can peel it off easily. While it’s still on the parchment paper you can press it onto the mannequin just to get it to stick. Loosely stick the Varaform to the mannequin and peel off the paper. Then use your hands to carefully stretch it over the form. Make sure you wet your hands before touching the Varaform directly!

Take your time to stretch or compress the mesh as needed to get it to take on the shape of the boobs. You can always reheat areas with a heat gun if it cools before you can finetune the fit. Varaform is very forgiving. If you accidentally bunch up too much you can squish and flatten it down. No need to cut darts. Let that cool completely before removing it from the mannequin.

Draw your cutting lines while it is still on the mannequin. Think about what makes sense in terms of hiding the seam lines with your costume. When you’re happy with the shape, you can take it off the mannequin and cut away the excess Varaform.

Covering the Varaform

Carefully cover the Varaform frame with 2 layers of felt. I used a hot glue gun because it was quick. Felt can stretch over curves to some degree, but you will need to dart it at the side to get it completely smooth. With a single layer of felt the mesh texture was still visible underneath, but a second layer of felt covered it completely. The felt will also give your boobs a soft plush texture like skin.

Estimate how much spandex you will need to stretch over the boobs and use a good adhesive to bond the spandex to the felt. I use Fabri-Tac because it stretches well and can be spread thinly. You don’t want to use a hot glue gun because the hard glue trail it leaves behind can be seen under the spandex. If you have rubber cement, or want to to use tacky spray adhesive that will probably work well too. Starting from the middle, carefully stretch and pull the spandex to cover the boobs. Make sure you cover every inch in glue to keep the stretch fabric down!

Painting the Boobs

If you have an airbrush, this part will go by much smoother! You can get an even coverage and do subtle shading without any visible brushstrokes. The nude spandex was no where near my actual skin color so I had to get creative with the acrylic paints I had to make something close to my skintone. You can also buy airbrush paint that’s already a match for your skin, but I was on a budget so I used regular acrylic paint and Airbrush Medium to create my airbrush paint.

Mixing tips: You can see from the swatches that I struggled a bit before I got a color I was happy with. Everyone’s skintone is different so I can’t tell you how to mix for your skin but I used a combination of cream, brown, red, peach, and green to achieve mine. Green neutralizes the redness in paint very well and actually was the secret ingredient to getting something close enough to my skin. Make sure you mix up a lighter shade and a darker shade for contouring/highlighting as well.

Painting tip: airbrush different layers. I started with a more pinkish base because my skin has a slight pinkish undertone to it, and then I layered the more tannish cream color on top. This variation in color makes it look more skin like.

The finished boobs above! You can see that I added highlight and shadows to exaggerate the shape more and give them dimension.

P.S. I am very small chested so this is all held up entirely by the rigid under-structure of the Varaform.

Attaching the Boobs

Depending on your needs you can sew shoulder straps, or create a halter neck strap to hold the boobs in place. You can also cut up an old bra band and use that to attach the boobs around the back.

I hope you found this tutorial useful! There’s many other ways of course to create a breast form but we thought it would be fun to try it with Varaform.
If you have more questions or like seeing more cosplay tips and tricks! Follow my page on Facebook [Vickybunnyangel Cosplay] or Twitter [@Vickybunnyangel]

Category: Cosplay, Tutorial, Varaform | Tags: | leave comment |