Costume Musings

Jewellery with Bezels and Epoxy

Metal Bezels

Great For
High end jewelry creations. Bezels are ideal for filling with Apoxie Clay designs and pointed back chaton stones, image designs with an Epoxy resin coating. Epoxy cement finishing. Resin doming and cabouchons.

-Available in 5 Finishes.
-Textured middle adheres better to materials.
-Can be baked up to 375 F degrees, in an oven.
-Silver Plated has a Brass base and are non-tarnishable.
-Raw Brass and Antique Brass are made of 100% Brass.
-Raw Copper and Antique Copper are made of 100% Copper.
-Silver Plating is hypo allergenic.

Apoxie Sculpt

Apoxie Clay is great for setting materials into bezels and creating shapes and designs for jewerly components. It can be used to fill bezels and frames, or alone to create simple designs. Used for model making, sculptures, restoration, statue work, and many more arts and crafts purposes.

Apoxie Clay has a Putty-like smooth consistency, 2 to 3 hours working time, self-hardenong, no ovens, kilns or fumes, 0% shrinking and cracking, lightweight, semi-gloss finish, permanent, waterproof, freeze-thaw stable, outdoor quality. Shelf life can be maintained or extending by refrigerating or freezing.


Step 1

Use equal parts of part A colored clay and part B grey setting compound

Step 2

Mix and knead Part A and B together for about 2 minutes until clay is one solid color with no streaks. Proper mixing ensures the clay will cure.

Step 3

Form the clay into any shape. A ball shape is ideal for creating a cabouchon look. Mold the clay into a bezel setting.

Step 4

Using a toothpick or applicator with a beeswax tip:
Pick up the chaton crystal from the top of the crystal.
Place it into the clay surface.
Make sure the pointed end is fully immersed into the clay.
The chaton should sit slightly below the edge of the clay surface. This will insure the chaton stays securely in the clay when dry.


Create your own unique designs. Clay can be painted when wet or dry, textured or brushed.

See our product list below:

Category: Crafts, Tutorial | Tags: | leave comment |

Vegan Costuming

We are often asked if our products are suitable for use by Vegans, so we’ve done a bit of research to help you navigate through these concerns. Keep in mind that Cosplay Supplies carries a wide range of products from numerous manufacturers, and it’s not always evident to us if something is 100% Vegan or cruelty free. If we haven’t included something in this list then the answer is probably “we don’t know” and it is up to you to decide if it’s appropriate. With that said, here’s a helpful guide to our most popular products.


We carry the top brands for professional/theatrical grade make-up and many of these companies have published their position when it comes to cruelty-free/vegan products.

Ben Nye
Ben Nye is cruelty free but not vegan. Their products are manufactured in the US. Unfortunately information on ingredients is not readily available on their website or catalog. To contact Ben Nye directly to inquire about products, call 310-839-1984.

Graftobian products are cruelty-free however they do not list ingredients on their website. A Graftobian representative sent a listing of their vegan products to the Cruelty Free Make-Up Artist blog. Their products are manufactured in the US. To contact Graftobian directly you can use their contact form on their website.

Most popular vegan Graftobian products:

Liquid Latex
Castor Seal
Pro Adhesive
Magic Blood Powder
Stage Blood
GlamAire Airbrush Makeup
F/X Aire Airbrush Makeup

Kryolan is cruelty free and has complete ingredient listings on their website ( that you can reference before making a purchase decision. Their products are manufactured in Germany. Many of their products are vegan with the exception of  oil and wax based products and certain colors that may contain carmine as a color additive. When in doubt, or if it isn’t clear on the website, you can reach out to Kryolan directly at

Kryolan’s famous Aquacolor line has been confirmed to be mostly vegan (with the exception of specific colors that may contain carmine), and the Aquacolor Metallics are vegan.

Mehron states that all of their products are cruelty free. All ingredients used in the manufacturing of their products are also guaranteed to be cruelty free and animal safe. However the line is not 100% Vegan as certain products do contain animal-derived ingredients. Mehron’s website labels any vegan products with their vegan stamp to make it easy for you to quickly find suitable products. Complete ingredient listings can also be found on their website (

Most popular vegan Mehron products:

Barrier Spray
Celebré Pro-HD
Liquid Latex
Paradise Pro Make-up
Paradise AQ Glitter
Professional Modeling Putty/Synthetic Wax 
ProColoRing Neutralizer
Velvet Finish Primer


We asked our manufacturers if their products were tested on animals, if third parties test on animals on their behalf, if their products contain ingredients derived from animals, and if anything contains animal by-products. We are still waiting on replies from some manufacturers and will update this section when we hear from them. It’s important to note that petroleum is involved in most manufacturing of modern plastics. Depending on your personal definition of veganism, we thought we would highlight that so you can make your own informed decision.

Fosshape does not test on animals or use animal derived ingredients/by-products.
Sintra does not test on animals or use animal derived ingredients/by-products.
Styrene does not test on animals or use animal derived ingredients/by-products.
Wonderflex does not test on animals or use animal derived ingredients/by-products.
Worbla does not test on animals or use animal derived ingredients/by-products. They also like to emphasize their use of renewable raw materials (i.e. leftover branches from production).


Most of the footwear we sell comes from Pleaser USA (which is the parent brand for Demonia, Fabulicious, Funtasma, Pin Up Couture, Devious, and Bordello). In recent years they have really expanded their selection of Vegan footwear, and many popular styles now have a Vegan version. In terms of durability and comfort, Pleaser’s vegan footwear are just as good as their non-vegan counter parts. Use the keyword “Vegan” to search all the vegan options we have available.

Most popular vegan footwear styles:

Abbey – 02 
Aspire – 608 
Aspire – 609
Cramps – 201
Defiant – 100
Emily – 375
Swing – 103


Almost all wigs we sell are made with synthetic fibers or human hair and are appropriate for Vegan use. Specific items like Crepe wool (used to create beards), or wigs made from yarn would not be Vegan friendly, and it is noted in the item description if someone thing is made from wool/yarn. Most synthetic compounds used for wig fibers do contain petroleum which depending on your preference and personal definition of veganism, may not be suitable for use. It is unclear if crude oil/fossil fuels/petroleum come entirely from plants or if there are ancient animals mixed in (the composition of petroleum is mostly from fossilized organic plant matter like algae).

Popular wig lines:
Blush Fashion/Cosplay Wigs
New Look Synthetic Wigs
New Look Human Hair Wigs
Sepia Wigs

Craft Supplies

Many of our general crafting products are manufactured in China. We aren’t sure specifically what can be classified as Vegan, so we will link you to the experts at Vegan Womble who have compiled a great list of brands that manufacture Vegan art supplies.

Vegan Art and Craft Supplies


Category: Cosplay, Industry News, News | Tags: | leave comment |

Magnetic Wings Tutorial featuring Varaform

Tutorial by Vickybunnyangel

As someone who travels a lot and works at various events as a cosplayer, it’s important for me to create things to be durable and lightweight. The ability of fitting into a suitcase, and also causing the least amount of strain on my body after a long day of wear, are the main reasons I decided to test out Varaform to create a set of magnetic wings. The particular character these wings are for is Star Guardian Soraka from League of Legends (the most weird part is they attach down by the butt, instead of the back), but you can easily adapt this tutorial to suit your needs!

What is Varaform?


Varaform is a lightweight thermoplastic extruded into mesh form. Unlike Wonderflex or Worbla’s Mesh Art, it does not actually have any fabric in it. It is purely plastic. When heated, it becomes soft and pliable like a sticky fabric mesh. To see a full explanation of Varaform, please refer to this post: Potential new product: Varaform.

Wing Base

Half sheet of Varaform Heavy
Quarter sheet of Varaform Light (Optional. It can all be made from Varaform Heavy)
Heat Gun
Parchment Paper


I covered my workspace with parchment paper and had a bowl of water on hand. Varaform is incredibly sticky when heated, and it will stick to almost everything. It can be easily peeled off of parchment paper once cooled, and you will need to constantly wet your fingers while working with it to avoid it sticking to you. An alternative method of heating up Varaform is in a bath of hot water, but I prefer using a heat-gun so my entire workspace doesn’t get wet.


I cut my Varaform into 6″ wide strips before rolling it into “bones”. Pro-tip: wear long sleeves when cutting the Varaform because the plastic mesh can be prickly on the skin. It’s not nearly as bad as trying to cut and work with chicken wire though.

Varaform’s lightweight quality is tied to it’s low density compared to other plastics. While this is great for making certain items like masks, for a set of 6 feet wide wings I needed my bone structure to be dense and durable. The middle image above shows a rolled piece of Varaform that has air pockets throughout inside. It felt nearly weightless. That thickness is not strong enough and will snap under pressure. In the third image above you can see my skeletal structure ended up being 4-5x that thickness and I also squeezed the varaform as I rolled it to make it as dense as possible. The trade off of course is weight and my wings ended up weighing about 2lbs, which is still reasonable.

After heating up my thick rolls of Varaform, I shaped them to create the main bone structure of the wing. I recommend looking at diagrams of real wings to get a sense of where the joints should be to make them look more realistic.

Using Varaform Light, I cut out rough feather shapes to create a base to glue my feathers on. I heat the feathers with a heat gun and stuck them onto the skeleton. Unlike Worbla, Varaform only requires one surface to be heated to stick. During this step I also shaped the 3D curvature of the wings. The curvature is much more noticeable in pictures later on after I’ve covered the mesh with feathers.

Residue from the glue in Varaform is to be expected. It looks kind of gross but once it is dried you can just rub it off your hands into a trashcan.

Covering the Wings & Harness

5x 8×11 sheets of White Felt
36x packs of White Turkey Feathers
12x packs of White Goose Feathers
20x 1″ diameter Rare Earth Magnets (magnetic strength of 30lbs)
Hot Glue
Medium sheet of Worbla’s Mesh Art
2x D Rings
Waistband Elastic
Velcro (optional)


I used 2 layers of Worbla’s Mesh Art to create a rigid base board the magnets would adhere to. Worbla adheres really well to the Varaform! This is great to know so you can get the best of both worlds by combining the materials together in a single build. I chose Mesh Art specifically because it is the strongest of the Worbla products and is very resistant to tearing thanks to the mesh embedded inside.

Then I covered the wings in felt to mask the texture of the Varaform mesh. Why? Because feathers (especially white) are actually a bit translucent when held up against light. The felt acts as a diffuser and prevents you from seeing that grid texture. I also made sure my lines were jagged and feathery looking because it blends better rather than looking like a solid straight line. If you ever buy those mass produced Halloween wings that are made with a base of cardboard or foam, you will notice the solid opaque outline of the base when you hold it up to light.


The most time consuming part of this build was hands down prepping the turkey feathers. After separating out feathers into left and right curvatures (this matters!), I shaped each one individually. This improves the overall look of the feathers and makes them look more like anime/fantasy wings.

It’s also advisable to categorize your feathers according to length as you tip them. It will make placing them much more efficient later on.


Cover the wings with feathers front and back. I did 2 rows of turkey feathers on each side.


This part is optional. To make the wings more compact for travel, the tips containing the longest feathers are removable. I glued these feathers to a scrap piece of white plastic (you can use Worbla, Sintra, styrene, piece of a plastic bucket etc.), then attached it to the wings with velcro. I slip it in under the feathers so it hides the separation point and looks blended. These feathers are generally the most fragile on wings because they stick out the most, so doing it this way allows me to continually replace them if needed.


Depending on how lazy or on a budget you are, this next part is also optional if you think the turkey feathers alone look good, but for me I like to cover my wings in a layer of goose plummage to soften the edges and hide where the turkey feathers are glued. It makes the wings look more polished and luxurious. Layer them front and back, and on the top. The felt should not be visible after you are done. You can see what this looks like in the photos at the end of the finished wings.

To attach the wings magnetically I used 1″ diameter rare earth magnets that have a rated pull strength of 30lbs. I had used smaller magnets previously with a strength of 9lbs, but found they were too weak to keep the wings up. Since the wings are not attached at their natural center of balance, and 3 feet of wing span has to be supported on such a small point, I decided the larger magnets were best. I would rather overkill with strength and know that the wings won’t fall off my back board.

I glued the magnets to the wings first, then used a slow drying paint to mark off their position. I pressed my backpiece into the paint so I had a perfect transfer of each magnet’s position to attach to the other side (as you can see in the picture above). The magnets are strong enough to rip each other off of the glue, so on my backpiece the magnets are then encased in a layer of Mesh Art.

The backboard is made from craft foam encased in 4 sheets of Worbla’s Mesh Art. I needed it to be rigid and hard as wood, because this piece is what supports the wings and holds them out at a 90 degree angle. Warping or breaking would be bad. You don’t have to do what I did. I just used what I had on hand, but wood or something that is rigid and strong will do the trick too.

I’m holding it up by gripping the back piece alone to show how strong the magnets are.


The magnetic back board is then attached to a curved piece so it sits on the contours of my bum better. The curved back piece if made from craft foam sandwiched between 2 pieces of Mesh Art. I attached D-Rings on either side with pieces of Mesh Art then tied elastic to it since we don’t have a sewing machine at the studio or else I would’ve sewn it properly to make it look cleaner. I heated the curved piece and the magnetic back board and attached them together. Mesh Art is very adhesive so no glue was required.


Category: Cosplay, Tutorial, Varaform | Tags: | 6 comments |

Potential new product: Varaform

Want to win some Worbla? Then read this post and answer the questions to be entered in our draw!

Here at Cosplay Supplies we’re always looking for new products we think might be helpful for the community. Sometimes we do private testing, sometimes we just dive in and carry something – and sometimes we need your input!

Which brings us to: Varaform!

Varaform is a thermoplastic that comes in 2 main forms – a light mesh and a heavy mesh. (There’s also a thin gauze sheet we’re not looking at for now.)

Varaform Heavy and Varaform Light

Varaform is used in the medical community as an alternative to plaster bandages for casts, and it’s been used for stage costuming for years to create large, lightweight costume pieces, especially under-structures for mascots and monsters.

Varaform Installation art

(Psssst: I have it on good authority Varaform is being used on the new Dark Crystal costumes!)

It activates at 160°F (71° C) and can be activated with warm water or a heat gun. It’s self adhesive, can be reheated endlessly, and incredibly lightweight: Varaform light is about 1/2 the weight of Black Worbla, and Varaform Heavy is about 2/3 the weight of Black Worbla.

Skeksis head made from Varaform and buckram. By Lydia Hanchett

What do we think it would be good for?

Mascot builders. Seriously – imagine being able to shape a head over a clay or foam base and then remove all that insulating foam? It gives you more space to cool and circulate air and removes a lot of the weight.

Varaform head covered with paper mache

Wings: When you need to build lightweight wings, and straight foam and wire alone won’t be enough, or when every ounce of weight counts, we think this material may be a huge help.

Vickybunnyangel used Varaform for these Star Guardian Soraka wings. The wings are covered in felt and feathers to hide the Varaform understructure. The wings weigh 2lbs on their own (which includes magnets), and are attached magnetically to a backboard made from Worbla’s Mesh Art, foam, and 1″ diameter rare earth magnets.

Horns: If they have to be big and quick! Casting your own horns does give you some of the best results, but if you don’t have time for curing, you can build an under structure quickly that can be wrapped in fabric Maleficent style or quick coated with an air-dry clay.

Build a base from tape and paper, wrap in cellophane.

Cover in strips of Varaform. Let cool, remove form.

Make a skullcap by wrapping your head in plastic and then having a friend help cast your head with Varaform strips. Don’t wear makeup on project day and hide face with something silly. Attach horns with strips of Varaform.

Wrap with straps of stretch faux leather. Glue lightly at overlap. Larger pieces used to cover the skullcap.

Time: 3hours total. Weight 13oz (0.8lb).
Ability to headbang: Yes.

A post shared by Amanda (@elementalsight) on

If you need a more organic horn, you can skip the fabric step and instead cover with an apoxie clay or air dry clay. We used Smooth-On’s Free Form Air which was a learning experience. It dries quicker than we expected and is more toxic than other clay we have used, so the skullcap was not quite finished smooth.

Time: 4.5 hours, not including cure time or paint drying. Weight: 1.6lb (27oz)

(Note: Yes, the horns are lopsided. This is the result of building fast, not careful. At least the clay method did help even it out 😛 )

One thing to note about the clay method is that you want to make sure you don’t push the clay through the mesh too far or it will shrink your headpiece. This happened with these horns and while I could fix it with some dremmel sanding, Free Form Air requires a proper respirator to sand and we don’t have one on hand at the office.

The clay through the mesh of the Varaform, especially at the edges of the skullcap, shrunk it juuuust enough to no longer fit.

Wigs and Hats: Similar to the horns idea, but if you needed to make a large wig, we’re thinking Varaform could be very useful for building the base to sculpt wigs onto for the ultimate in lightweight structure that won’t just be insulating and top-heavy. Varaform might also work well in areas where buckram or foam would be used in large headpieces to avoid relying on wire to provide stability. Gallery below is some examples of things we think Varaform might work well in.

Differences between Light and Heavy:

The wings and Horns were made with mostly Varaform Light, with the Heavy being used along the spine of the wing and for some reinforcement of the skullcap of the horns. I do think we could have used Light for both without issue, but for large things such as mascot heads or complex shapes where you don’t want a lot of overlapping areas, the Heavy might be the better choice, as the light will need more overlap to achieve the same strength as Heavy.

What we’re not sure about:

While we think this has potential, that doesn’t mean it’s without some disadvantages. We can think the pros outweigh the cons, but what we really need to know if you folks do. So, some considerations:

While it’s flexible, It’s about as brittle as Worbla. if someone were to crash into you/sit on your costume, it could break.

The Varaform Heavy mesh is harder to cut: if you have difficulties cutting hard plastics, you might need a friend or a lot of breaks if you’re cutting through a lot of this.

Varaform is messy. The adhesive is a bit reminiscent of white glue and plaster of Paris combined: it leaves a white powder over your work surface and hands, and needs to be cleaned up with water. Clean up is easy, but it’s a consideration to make.

Scraps are less recyclable than Worbla: because it’s a mesh, the scraps can be used to patch areas and smooth joins, but can’t be as easily repurposed as Worbla can be.

It needs to be worked over a form. Varaform is really really floppy when activated – you aren’t going to be able to shape this easily by hand for any complex shape. It’s going to require a form, whether that’s made from packing tape and paper, foam, clay, your body, or something else.

Price: Varaform is sold to us by the roll, and is roughly 40in/100cm tall. We’re estimating price (including shipping) to be around:
Varaform Light 40inx60in = $70
Varaform Heavy 40inx60in = $90

We’ll be offering smaller cuts as well, the Varaform Light should be close to Worbla’s Finest Art in pricing with Heavy around 30% more.

So what we would like to know is your honest opinion:

You can find our questionnaire here! Fill it out and you’ll be entered to win a medium sheet of Worbla – your choice of type! Draw will be held October 2nd!

Category: Cosplay, News, Varaform | Tags: | 19 comments |

An Insider look into Star Trek: Discovery‘s Alien Prosthetics

It was the last hour of the last day of IMATS Toronto and while things were winding down on the exhibit hall side, seats of the Open Forum stage were filling up for Star Trek: Discovery; one of the most anticipated panels of the weekend. Make-Up Artist magazine’s publisher, Michael Key, sat down with  prosthetic and special effects make-up department head, James MacKinnon; key make-up artist, Hugo Villasenor; and actor, Doug Jones.


Discovery is the newest installment in the Star Trek universe set to premiere September 24, 2017. The narrative takes place ten years before Star Trek (TOS) so it was of particular interest to us to see how the special effects make-up would bring something new to the table while staying true to the continuity of the universe established by Kirk and his crew. Early preview images show the Klingons in particular looking drastically different from their TOS counterpart. When asked if this was a stylistic decision or plot-driven change, MacKinnon claimed it was purely an artistic choice. We’ll have to wait to watch the series to see if his words hold any weight since the entire panel had to be very careful to not spoil any narrative elements.

To keep things focused on the technical aspects of make-up, the panel brought on actor Doug Jones and centred around the development of his character, Lt. Saru the Kelpien. Kelpiens are a new alien species to the franchise. As seen in the teaser pilot, Kelpiens were biologically determined to sense the coming of death as they are characterized as the “prey” species on their planet. Lt. Saru subverts the cowardly stereotype of his species, and becomes the first Kelpien to join Starfleet. Saru’s look had to convey a character that was distinctly memorable and lovable. It seems like he is positioned to be the Data or Spock of the series, so his ability to connect with audiences was important.

That need for connection between Jones’s performance and audiences was the basis for finalizing a design that could be executed using prosthetics instead of relying on CG. Everything from the actor’s natural height to the way he had to move on hoofed platform shoes (putting him at a towering 6’8”) contributes to the physicality of the character. Everything you see on screen is 100% the actor’s performance through the prosthetics. There was one exception for digital enhancement regarding the Kelpien ears, but since that was a narrative-based detail the panel couldn’t reveal too much other than to say “something cool happens”.

Before Jones can saunter around on set like a graceful gazelle, he has to sit in the make-up chair for around 2 hours while MacKinnon meticulously works on painting his prosthetics. Lt. Saru is comprised of 5 pieces: cowl, face, chin, bottom lip, and sclera contact lenses. Most of the prosthetics on the show are prepainted during production to provide the base coloring but the rest is done by make-up artists on set. Using a combination of 6 colors, MacKinnon creates the textures and realism of Kelpien skin (for those curious, the brand of paint he uses is Skin Illustrator).

Fresh prosthetics are used every day as they found it more efficient to cut the actor out at the end of shooting and repaint another set. The prosthetics for Saru are created from a 2 part silicon called Smooth-On Skin Tite, so once all the pieces are attached in the morning it becomes one continuous skin around the actor. In the above picture, you can see what Jones looks like after the back of his prosthetics are sliced down the center back and peeled forward. To date, Mackinnon has done the Kelpien make-up about 70 times.

While the panel was quite hush hush on what other jaw-dropping looks they created (as to not spoil any upcoming alien encounters), they did touch on a few other characters who were revealed in the pilot. Sarek (Spock’s dad) played by James Frain is not as heavy on the prosthetics but he sits in the make-up chair just as long as Jones does while the make-up and hair department painstakingly apply facial hair, lace, and skin blockers to create the iconic Vulcan look. You wouldn’t know it just by looking at Frain’s normal photos, but his real hair is actually used and styled into the Vulcan fringe.

Mackinnon and Villasenor both stressed the importance of creating depth and texture when doing body painting work as one solid color never looks good. That’s a tip cosplayers should certainly keep in mind when doing characters with full body paint. Be sure to accentuate your features with shading and don’t be afraid to texturize a bit to make it more realistic.

For any Star Trek fans in the Greater Toronto Area, the panel did reveal that the bulk of filming is done inside Pinewood Studios, but they have shot on location in a forest and quarry near Mississauga. Should any of you aspiring Discovery cosplayers be looking for screen accurate shoot locations, there’s a neat tidbit for you!

Category: Cosplay, Costumes, Industry News, Makeup | Tags: | leave comment |

Introducing two new products: Worbla’s Deco Art and Crystal Art!

We’re so excited to announce two new products to our lineup from Worbla: Deco Art and Crystal Art.

Worbla’s Deco Art is actually an older product – similar to friendly plastic, Deco Art was always too cost prohibitive to import to North America, but recent changes in packaging and shipping options means we can now bring it in for customers to see this alternative for quick and easy building.

Crystal Art is brand new, a plastic pellet that you can mold and form and even sculpt to a degree that remains clear and flexible when it cools. It’s a great alternative to resin casting when you need something clear and it needs to be fast, or when you can’t resin cast due to space, cost or health reasons.

When would you use Deco Art? Adding dimension to Worbla builds is the most common use, adding skulls, pommels, texture and decorative details to a Worbla base. You can also sculpt Deco Art on its own, or cast it in moulds to create quick hard plastic copies of a needed shape.

Above: Deco Art used with various molds.

Deco Art used to create raised detailing on a shoulder pauldron.

When would you use Crystal Art? As an alternative to resin casting, or when you need something translucent but flexible. Crystal Art will let you create small gems and stones, magic runes and organic looking crystal with ease. Larger pieces can be much more difficult to mold ‘cleanly’, as it can be difficult to evenly heat the pellets and prevent air from getting trapped, but it still can give you a product that will work especially when you need more of an overall effect than something to withstand closeup scrutiny.

Crystal Art molded and colored in a variety of ways.

Crystal Art casting process by Naruvien Art & Design

It’s important to note that neither of these products are suggested as a replacement for resin casting, just as an alternative when casting with resin is not the best option.

Deco Art and Crystal Art will be available in 4.4oz and 14oz packages, and can be found here on

Interested to learn more about these products? Check out their product pages here!

Category: Cosplay, News, Worbla | Tags: | leave comment |

Now Available: The Book of Cosplay Sewing

Kamui Cosplay has created another book to add to her lineup, this time all about sewing!

The Book of Cosplay Sewing!
Are you a beginner when it comes to fabric? Have you never touched a needle and thread, but finally want to start? This is the book just for you! In 52 pages and over 220 pictures you’ll get easy step-by-step guides and detailed explanations about: Sewing by hand or with a machine, choosing the right fabric, sewing stretch fabrics, creating new or working with pre-existing patterns, sewing a mock-up, adjusting patterns, adding a zipper, lining, sewing gloves, leggings, boot covers and a dress, attaching armor to fabric and of course a lot of detailed pictures, tips and work examples!

Included in the book, which has 52, full color pages:

Introduction to tools, machines and materials
Sewing machine and serger
Choosing the right fabric
Three useful hand-stitches
Working with stretch materials
Sewing simple gloves with lycra (drawing a pattern on paper)
Sewing leggings with jersey (creating patterns from old clothes and working with a serger)
Sewing a dress with satin (working with store bought patterns)
Sewing a boot cover with faux leather (creating patterns with duct tape)
Attaching armor to fabric

It also covers these useful techniques:
Creating a mock-up
Adjusting patterns
Placing a zipper
Adding lining
Many more useful tips

As well as the following work examples:
Cleric (Aion)
Xena: Warrior Princess
Monk (FFXIV)

The Book of Cosplay Sewing is available at! It retails for $28 but is only $22 if purchased with a Jumbo roll of Worbla!

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Interview with Meesha / Kyuu Vixen Cosplay from Cosplay Melee!

We were lucky to interview Meesha of Kyuu Vixen Cosplay about her episode of Cosplay Melee and talk a bit about the experience!

Your dragon was such a great idea, and I loved the way you built up layers with Worbla and Foam. Have you used Worbla on other projects? What are you most proud of?

Luckily this was not my first encounter with using Worbla, while I was on Cosplay Melee. I tend to use fabric and various types of foam for most of my creative processes. Though I have used thermoplastics here and there, for various projects. Usually having to do with some type of armor or prop making. One of my favorite builds of mine, while using a mix of foam and Worbla. Similar to the sandwiching and shaping like was shown on the show, would be my Diablo cosplay from Diablo III. It was my first full bodied reptile-like creature costume, which took 4-5 months to build but I had to get very inventive with the process while working on the cosplay.

The magic of TV editing means we don’t always get to see issues with a build – was there anything you had issues with on your dragon that they didn’t show?

Making any cosplay wouldn’t be complete without having some sort of road block of course. Making an original character can be a bit of a task in itself but while under pressure while a clock is ticking can be even harder and leave a person a bit flustered while making blueprints of their character. My trouble was that accidentally ordered too small of PVC piping, and made the Dragon skull a bit too large while jotting down patterns in my foam and worbla. So my staff became a bit too top heavy. As a competition judge myself, I knew that was something that my panel of judges would “ding” me for. Which of course they did, but I completely understood.
Other then that, the skull staff was supported on the PVC piping by a cone that I had created. While screwing the skull onto the cone shape, I did have to be careful and have a very steady hand. As to not pierce the screw completely through the sandwich layers of worbla, but just enough to keep it tight and a bit of extra glue to reinforce the mounted skull.

What inspired you to participate in Cosplay Melee? Would you go back for another round if they invited you?

The casting director actually reached out to me very early on, as my information was kept. After I applied for “Heroes of Cosplay”‘s first season. Which when speaking to the casting director, the premise of this new cosplay related show was going to be focused on the craft. Which is what really interested me, as I am more about the positivity in the community and sharing similar interests with other inventive people. It was a bit of a risk, but definitely was worth every minute of it.

I absolutely would love to go back for another season, gotta show how much I have been working on my prop making skills since the end of the show. It really inspired me to reach out a bit more into my community and speak to people who do focus their skills more in this area, and in exchange I have been offering more sewing techniques to my friends.

Going on a professional set can be a bit intimidating at first, even though I have acted for roles either in competitions or for theater. Nothing really can prepare you for television till you are actually standing there. Once I got to speaking to other people, it really relaxes you. Also reality television really makes it a bit easier, all you have to do is be yourself. That’s why you are there, because you were chosen because the producers for the network liked your personality.

I actually didn’t know any of my fellow contestants, but really hit it off with them the moment we all met. Also having a nice reunion a few months later when I was in California for the “Talking Dead.” #teamhardicehorses #sandstorm

Has being part of Cosplay Melee inspired you to take on new projects? Is there a dream costume in the works for you now?

Being on the show really did remind me a bit more on why I love doing what I do. Kinda was little an invigorating feeling that really amps you up for creating more projects that may have been on a “list” for a while. Some projects that I am currently working on for Anime Expo is Revali from Legend of Zelda-Breath of the Wild and Bayonetta’s main skin from Bayonetta 2. I do know that eventually, my dream project would be making an EVA from Neon Gensis Evagelion, more specifically Rei Ayaname’s EVA Unit.

Photo by WeNeals

The workshop is really out of a cosplayer’s dream – were there any tools or supplies you wish you could have taken back with you?

Common, of course I am going to say EVERYTHING. I’d take the whole lot please!

Photo by WeNeals

Lastly: What advice would you give someone who wants to apply for the next season of Cosplay Melee?

Well aspects of season 2 might change, so what advise that I can offer for future contestants would be that you do not know what the staff is looking for in future contestants. Remember to be yourself always, they like you to be real for reality television. The judging is not as difficult in my opinion compared to large convention competitions. There is a time constraint but they are not judging for accuracy, looking up close at every detail, so your construction does not need to be flawless.

Category: Cosplay, Worbla | Tags: | leave comment |

Interview with Jacqueline Goehner from Cosplay Melee!

We had the chance to interview Jacqueline Goehneron her experience with Cosplay Melee and her work as a Cosplayer!

First of all, congrats on your episode and being chosen for Cosplay Melee! Your work is always wonderful and it was a treat to see you work ‘live’.
Awe!!! Thank you so much! It was such an incredible experience!

So first question: I know what Moe is, but I never remember the rest of the random titles for characteristics. Did they explain those to you off screen if you didn’t know/offer to explain, or was there the assumption you all knew the terms?
There was an assumption that we knew all the terms, but I’ve been explained before that “Moe” was a cute, feminine, innocent person or rather something or being precious. I’ve also heard of different sub-variations of Moe, like being submissive or shy or coy.

Photo by Paul Tien

For your staff, you put that together so fast and so *large* it was really impressive! When working with expanding foam and caulk, are there any general pointers you’d give cosplayers who want to emulate that effect?
Thank you! Actually, it’s important to know your materials and how well they work. The expanding foam can cure pretty quickly if you don’t overdo it. So do thinner layers if you’re in a time crunch! And caulk is very much like working with frosting! (It looks like frosting too!) It can be smoothed down, but It can also take on some really amazing texture without going overboard on work. Again, you have to make sure you get the kind that cures faster and can be painted, or you’ll end up with some big problems!

Your final costume had so many parts! Could you breakdown the whole thing? I feel like they didn’t show enough of your construction to really give us a sense of your underpinnings and layers.
Haha! There was so much to ALL of our costumes that they didn’t cover, but it’s an hour long show! So from head to boot: lavender and silver streaked wig, flower hair pieces connect with chain (shown in the back), elf ears, purple breastplate accented with gold also with iridescent fairy wings attached, white bodice, cincher (unseen), pink and magenta floral lacing and embroidery fabric, multi-colored pick-up pleated skirt with train, stripped gold tulle petticoat, six floating elongated purple faulds (skirt armor), and gold with purple lace painted boots. I think that’s it lol!

I loved the way your Worbla breastplate framed your chest! It was super flattering. What other projects have you used Worbla in? Do you have any you are especially proud of?
Thank you! I was already in love with Worbla, but I had only used it on smaller pieces or smaller parts if armor. I’ve used Worbla for my Zelda armor, for my upcoming Samus Varia suit (and I just ran out of Worbla *cries*), I’ve used a good chunk of it for my Borg cosplay (the breastplate and stabilizing other parts of the costume), Ganondorf’s headpiece, Vampirella’s armband, and other characters…too many to list!

Speaking of your chest- I mean, if I may – you do a lot of revealing costumes and photosets, and part of your introduction was about being confident in yourself – which you absolutely rock! That said – did SyFy tell you that they wanted a certain amount of skin covered for TV? Were there any guidelines everyone was expected to follow?
haha, thank you girl!!! Confidence is a big important factor in cosplay. SyFy was well aware of my revealing costumes, but they never ever told me what I couldn’t design. They were equally supportive with all of us of what we wanted to do. It’s funny though, I’m known for the more revealing characters, but I’ve done more conservative cosplays than revealing! Maybe 5 or 6 revealing cosplays out of 80+ costumes. So being covered up wasn’t out of the norm for me LOL!

Photo by William D Lee Photography

Your profile says you’ve done work for different productions – anything we might recognize that has your name attached? Any productions you are especially proud of being a part of (besides Melee of course!)
Yes! The last film I costume designed for was The Curse of Sleeping Beauty which came out last year I believe, I’m very proud of my work there! I’ve also made costumes for SMOSH, Anovos, Disney, and many others.

Do you have a dream costume still on your bucket list?
actually I’m working on TWO dream costumes! My Samus varia suit and my Angelus costume (animatronic WINGS!!!!!!!!!), one of which involves a LOT of Worbla!

The shop had so many tools and supplies – was there anything you wished you could take home with you?
OMG yes! If I could’ve, I would’ve taken ALL the Worbla and L200, the cutting mats (I go through those quick), drawing table, work table, I have a vacuform, but the one they had there was much bigger, I’d also take the ENTIRE electronics section (SO many goodies in there that I wanted!)….and yeah, basically the whole space! Paul and I talked that if either of us ever won the lottery, we would recreate that space! I’m sure Meesha and Jessie are in the same boat!

Photo by Eurobeat Kasumi Photography

Lastly: What advice would you give to someone who wanted to compete in Cosplay Melee season 2?
Have fun! This competition is a boat load of work, but if you have fun with it, it’ll be rewarding no matter what the outcome! Also, practice with your materials and tools prior. It helps cut out the stress if something doesn’t go right and it’ll really help!


You can see more of Jacqueline’s work on her facebook!

Category: Costumes, Worbla | Tags: | 1 comment |

FoamWerks cutting tools!

FoamWerks sent us their Deluxe FoamWerks kit to test on Worbla, so we gave it to Amanda (Elemental Photography and Design) and Vicky (Vickybunnyangel Cosplay) to run the set through the paces of cutting Worbla, EVA foam and Sintra.

You can see the tests they did live on Twitch here, starting at the 1h13 mark!

FoamWerks Cutters are handy for cutting Worbla and foam especially if you have difficulty gripping/controlling an Xacto knife. The ergonomic design makes it comfortable to grasp and utilizes more of your arm strength taking the strain off of your hand muscles – Amanda has tendinitis and grip issues, and this was a huge benefit for her especially. Here’s a breakdown of the standout tools we tried:

WB6020 Freestyle Cutter

V: Originally meant as a push style cutter, we found it worked better “pulling” on Worbla. Starting from the middle of a sheet (you can’t start from the edge, so if you’re drawing the outline of your design make sure you leave enough allowance between the edge), the Freestyle Cutter can do complex curves and worked with a single layer of Worbla. The precision was not as exact as cutting with scissors, however this could be used to cut out basic shapes before using scissors to cut out the finer details.

A: I had more success with this than Vicky, and I think if I had one I’d use it for cutting my large general shapes (such as cutting out pieces for sandwiching) because it’s faster than scissors but also doesn’t strain my wrists the way a xacto knife or scissors would. I do a lot of sandwiching and folding and this would cut that basic shape time (and strain) in half.

WC-6001 Straight Cutter

V: The Straight Cutter is a much larger tool with a wide flat base to provide stability when cutting straight lines. It can be used free hand, or in conjunction with the W-3001 Channel Rail. The Straight Cutter has a build in channel guide that will lock onto the tracks of the W-3001 ruler to prevent slippage. Very handy for making worbla strips consistent in width for edge details. We found it can handle 2 layers of fused Worbla with some effort, otherwise it easily cuts 1 layer.

A: This is a game changer for me – I hate the time it takes to cut lots and lots of strips for Worbla detailing, and while a rotary cutter might work well for some, the replacement blades are just too expensive for me to want to dull them on plastic, while the blades of the straight cutter stay sharp even after many cuts on both foam and Worbla. Especially after cutting through 2 layers of black, I’ll be using this for my Sailor Mercury build!

Above: Strips cut with the straight cutter. The bottom strip of black was done freehand with scissors for a comparison.

WC-2001 V-Groove Cutter

V: Worbla is too thin to use with the V-Groove cutter which requires a minimum thickness of ⅛”. Typically it’s used for foamboard. It can cut material up to a max thickness of ½” . It will cut a “v” shaped strip out of your material so you can make seamless 45 degree joints. The real takeaway though is the strip that is extracted. It creates that perfect beveled triangle edge that is so prevalent in a lot of armor designs like Warcraft – we tried this on 6mm EVA foam with great success.

The V-Groove Cutter can cut in a straight line, or cut curves so you can customize how your strip will turn out if you want minimal twisting i.e. to get an “S” shape.

A: This so did not work at all on Worbla, but the application on foam is really, really neat. If you do a lot of armor that requires that sharp raised beveled edge, this could save a lot of time with a dremel. You have to get the right hang of how ‘deep’ to push as you extract the foam or you’ll have an uneven V shape, but once I got the hang of it I was sold. This is getting added to my toolshop.

WA-8001 Circle Cutter

V: The circle cutter is a bit of a niche tool, but if you ever need to cut perfect circles out of Worbla, this is great for that. It’s easy to use with the crank handle slowly lowering the blade in a circular motion. It can cut through multiple layers of Worbla. The circle cutter creates circles between 1” – 6” diameter

A: I wish I could think of a better application for it, since circles are so niche, but man this was just FUN and very rewarding to use. If you do have a costume that requires circles, consider this instead of shelling out for a laser cutter.

WD8011 Hole Drill

V: This picks up where the Circle Cutter leaves off. If you are making say a corset out of Worbla or need to create holes for a lace-up system to attach your armor, then this can be a handy tool to achieve that. Then you can install grommets to further strengthen the holes. It’s small in size and portable compared to the large Circle Cutter.

It’s recommended that your holes be drilled in your Worbla pieces, before you heat shape them as you need a flat surface to properly use the tool.

A: Vicky pretty much sums it up! I think the fact it can give you really clean, sharp holes is great – usually I just poke holes with a leather tool, but they don’t come out this clean and even. We didn’t end up testing this on video while we were streaming, but it’s very simple to use. And it comes with multiple sizes!

WC-6010 Straight/ Bevel Cutter

A: Admission time. We tackled all of these live on Twitch, and the kit instructions on the bevel/straight edge cutter weren’t clear, so we didn’t see a ‘value’ in it and set it aside. The next afternoon I decided to give it another try because I felt like we must have been doing something wrong – and so I watched a YouTube video to realize that we’d missed a step completely.

Giving the bevel cutter a second chance was really quite awesome – it gives you sharp, perfectly beveled edges at 45 degrees, similar to the V groove cutter but useful when you need to bevel an edge. It isn’t strong enough to cut through multiple layers of Worbla, so it would be something to use on EVA foam, as Worbla just isn’t thick enough on its own for that bevel to matter. That said, I really love how neat and clean the cuts were and how easy it was to get that edge


Overall we think the Straight Cutter, Hole Drill, Bevel Edge Cutter, and V Groove Cutter have a lot of potential for speeding up the process for cosplayers, and the freestyle cutter may be a great help to folks who would like to cut down on scissor/xacto knife use at the start of a build. These aren’t replacements for your normal tools, but if you want to save time or are looking for some more ergonomic tools to add to your toolbox, look into FoamWerks!

Category: Cosplay, Worbla | Tags: | 2 comments |